making the syrup
To make the syrup, put the sugar and liquid into a large saucepan with any solid flavouring. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 3-4 minutes. Skim and use as required. The fruit can be cooked either in a saucepan over a direct gentle heat or in a casserole in a moderate to cool oven. The second method takes longer but preserves the shape of the fruit better.
The time taken depends on the type of fruit, its size, and ripeness. Most cook in 20 minutes or less in a saucepan, but take twice as long in a casserole. Use a stainless steel, aluminium or enamelled pan or an earthenware casserole. Do not use copper or brass. When the fruit is cooked, remove it with a perforated spoon, drain well, and transfer to a serving bowl. Discard any solid flavourings from the syrup and boil until it is well reduced. Pour it over the fruit and serve either hot or cold. (Note: individual flavourings are suggested below as appropriate, but any fruit can be stewed in natural or canned juice; brandy or other fortified wine can be added to the syrup.)
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apples and pears
Peel, core, and leave whole if small, quarter if large. Make a syrup with 100 g sugar and 250 ml water (more if the fruit is very hard) per 500 g fruit. Flavour with lemon rind, cloves or cinnamon stick. Colour the syrup with cochineal, if liked, or replace some of the water with white wine or cider. Put the prepared fruit into the liquid immediately to preserve its colour; it must be completely covered by the liquid. Stew either in a saucepan or in a casserole in a moderate oven. Cooking pears may take 4-5 hours in the oven.
